Wämser - Medieval doublet
The doublet is one of the most characteristic garments of the late Middle Ages – form-fitting, fashionable and available in a wide variety of styles, from simple to sumptuous. Whether for re-enactment, LARP or a medieval market: here you’ll find over 200 doublets for men and women made from wool, linen, cotton and velvet, priced from around 35 to 168 euros.
What is a doublet? History and origins
The doublet has its origins in the gambeson – the padded protective garment worn by knights beneath their armour. From the 13th century onwards, this functional undergarment developed into a distinct item of outerwear worn by both the nobility and the bourgeoisie. The figure-hugging silhouette became the hallmark of late medieval fashion – a stark contrast to the loose, flowing clothing of the early and high Middle Ages.
Grammatically, it is the wams (neuter), in the plural the wamsers. The word derives from the Old French wambais, which goes back to the Medieval Latin wambasium – originally the knight’s undergarment. A related term is the Renaissance doublet, into which the wams evolved in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Important: The wams differs from the waistcoat in that it was worn both sleeveless and with long, attached sleeves. The waistcoat is always sleeveless – it is thought to have developed historically from the wams.
Historical development: From the gambeson to the wams
The gambeson as protective clothing
The padded gambeson serves as a base layer for chainmail and armour. It is made from several layers of linen or wool and protects against impacts and friction – not yet a fashion item, but purely for protection.
The doublet as an independent garment
The doublet breaks away from its military origins and finds its way into civilian fashion. The nobility and the upper middle classes wear it as outerwear, often in combination with drawstrings to fasten the trousers.
Late Middle Ages: figure-hugging styles and a variety of colours
Fashion becomes increasingly figure-hugging. Doublets are cut more tightly, featuring elaborate buttons and colourful fabrics. Trousers are fastened to the doublet. Medieval buttons become a fashion statement.
Transition to the Renaissance doublet
The doublet evolves into the Renaissance doublet – lavishly padded, embellished and indispensable as a status symbol of the nobility. The cuts become even more elaborate, with velvet and fine fabrics becoming the norm.
Price guide: Doublets to suit every need
Attractive cotton doublets for market visitors and beginners. Easy to care for, available in many colours and robust for occasional use. Ideal as a first costume or for visits to medieval markets. Brands: Leonardo Carbone, Mythrojan.
Wool-blend fabric with linen lining and set-in sleeves – for regular re-enactors and LARP players who value material quality. Better fit, historically closer to the original. Brands: Burgschneider, House of Warfare, Battle Merchant.
Pure wool doublet with linen lining, velvet doublets in festival quality or elaborately crafted pieces with high-quality craftsmanship. For discerning re-enactors and performers. Price range up to €168. Also from our own brand Vehi Mercatus – exclusively natural fibres.
The complete late medieval outfit: what goes with the doublet?
The doublet is the centrepiece of a late medieval gentleman’s outfit – but it only comes into its own when paired with the right accompaniments. As a base, one wears a medieval shirt made of linen or cotton, which remains visible at the collar and sleeves and lends depth to the overall look.
Underneath, you’ll find breeches or knee-length trousers, which are traditionally tucked into the doublet – more on this in the section on tucking. Medieval leather shoes or boots complement the overall look. A belt with a pouch or bag adds both practicality and visual appeal to the outfit.
For the head, options include a hood, a medieval hat or cap, and a hooded cap – depending on the era and social class. In cool weather, a cloak or coat completes the ensemble. When it comes to the colour scheme, contrasting colours between trousers and doublet – such as burgundy combined with green or black with brown – create an authentic late medieval look.
An overview of doublet styles: from the commoner to the nobleman
Sleeveless & with sleeves
The sleeveless doublet functions similarly to a waistcoat and is worn over the shirt. The version with attached sleeves is historically accurate for the 14th and 15th centuries – the sleeves can be removed if required.
Armour doublet
The armour doublet is padded and is worn under chainmail or plate armour. It provides cushioning and comfort. In the shop you will find models such as the “Wolfenwacht armour doublet” made from a linen blend with leather lacing.
Velvet doublet & suede waistcoat
The velvet wams symbolises nobility and festive occasions – elaborately crafted in colours such as burgundy, black or blue. The suede waistcoat is a robust alternative that is equally popular for re-enactment and LARP.
Materials compared: wool, linen, cotton and velvet
| Material | Suitability | Properties |
|---|---|---|
| Wool (outer fabric) + linen (lining) | Historical | Reliably warm, breathable, historically documented – Vehi Mercatus own brand |
| Linen blend | Historical | Lightweight, breathable, comfortable in summer – for linen and armour-lined doublets |
| Wool blend | LARP | Cheaper than pure wool, warmer than cotton – a good compromise for regular use |
| 100% cotton | LARP | Easy to care for, affordable, attractive – ideal for beginners and occasional wearers |
| Velvet | Festive | Impressive and elegant – for portraying nobility, market weddings or special occasions |
| Suede | LARP | Sturdy and hard-wearing – particularly popular as a sleeveless waistcoat |
Lacing and lacing straps: what’s the story behind them?
The term ‘nesteln’ originates from Middle High German and refers to fastening with a ‘nestel’ – a lacing strap or ribbon loop. In the Middle Ages, annesteln was the primary fastening technique for clothing, as zips did not yet exist and buttons only became widespread during the late Middle Ages.
In practical terms, it works like this: doublets and sleeves had lacing holes – small eyelets through which lacing ribbons or cords were threaded. This allowed sleeves to be attached to the doublet in a removable manner or the codpiece trousers to be held in place on the doublet without slipping. Without this system, the tight-fitting trousers of the late Middle Ages would not have had a reliable hold.
Today, lacing cords with brass tips are available as matching accessories – they make threading easier whilst looking authentic. Anyone wearing a historically accurate doublet with laced sleeves cannot do without lacing.
With over 200 doublets in all materials, styles and price ranges, you’ll find the perfect garment for your late medieval outfit here – from your first visit to the market to a sophisticated re-enactment. Browse through the collection and complete your ensemble.
Frequently asked questions
The doublet is a late medieval garment that was worn both sleeveless and with long, set-in sleeves. The waistcoat, on the other hand, is always sleeveless – historically, it probably developed from the doublet. Both terms are often used interchangeably today, although they were originally distinct.
Historically, doublets were mainly made of wool and lined with linen. Wool provides reliable warmth and was readily available in the Middle Ages. For re-enactment purposes, wool doublets with a linen lining are recommended. Cotton is a cheaper, easier-to-care-for alternative for beginners and occasional wearers, but is not historically attested.
Annesteln refers to the fastening of garments using lacing cords or lacing ribbons – narrow straps or ribbons threaded through lacing holes (eyelets). In the late Middle Ages, sleeves were attached to doublets in this way, or codpieces were fastened to doublets. As there were neither zips nor widely used buttons, lacing was the central fastening system of medieval fashion.
Most doublets in our range are available in standard sizes S to XXL. Some models go up to 3XL or 5XL. Exact size availability varies depending on the model and manufacturer – the product pages each contain detailed size information with measurement charts.
Simple cotton doublets for beginners are available from around 35 euros. Wool-blend fabrics with linen lining and sewn-in sleeves range from 60 to 90 euros. High-quality wool doublets with linen lining or festive velvet doublets cost from 100 euros, some up to 168 euros. The price range reflects the difference in material, workmanship and historical accuracy.