Medieval clothing for women - Clothing for women
Medieval clothing for women encompasses much more than just a simple costume: from simple linen undershirts of the early Middle Ages to form-fitting overdresses of the late Middle Ages, each garment reflects a specific era, social status and way of wearing. Whether for LARP, re-enactment or the medieval market – the right clothing is crucial for authenticity and comfort.
What is medieval women's clothing? Basics of women's clothing
Medieval women's clothing was not a loose ensemble of blouse and skirt, but a well-thought-out system of undergarments and outer garments, complemented by a coat, belt and headdress. The basic principle remained stable for centuries, while cuts, materials and silhouettes differed significantly depending on the era and social status.
Social status was reflected in clothing: a peasant woman wore undyed or simply dyed wool garments in a simple cut, while a noblewoman presented herself in finely woven, brightly coloured fabrics with elaborate lacing. Cut, fabric and colour were social codes – not merely a matter of taste.
For today's wearers, there are three clearly distinct areas of application:
- Historical reenactment requires reconstruction that is as close to the original as possible: period-specific cut, historically documented materials (linen, wool), correct wearing style.
- LARP allows more creative freedom – comfort, durability and atmosphere are paramount, and cotton is accepted.
- Medieval markets fall somewhere in between: atmospheric clothing that does not necessarily have to be historically accurate, but still has a medieval feel.
Epochs and styles: an overview of the early Middle Ages, high Middle Ages and late Middle Ages
Depending on the era depicted, the cut, silhouette and way of wearing medieval clothing for women differ fundamentally – an overview of the most important style eras.
Early Middle Ages / Vikings
The so-called hangerock (also known as a hängerchen or Trägerrock) is worn over a long-sleeved linen undergarment and fastened at the shoulders with clasps or brooches. Wool and linen are the dominant materials. The silhouette is flowing and concealing, the colours natural or dyed with plant dyes. Typical Viking clothing for women.
High Middle Ages
The bliaut characterises the High Middle Ages: a fitted outer garment with lacing at the side or back, creating a more flowing, figure-hugging silhouette. Long sleeves, often flared, and finer fabrics characterise courtly fashion. The lacing allows for individual adjustment of the fit.
Late Middle Ages
The cotehardie of the late Middle Ages emphasised the body line even more clearly: close-fitting, often closed with button plackets, with a pronounced waist. The cut became more precise and fashion more regional. For reenactments of this era, thorough source research is particularly recommended, as cuts differed considerably between southern and northern Europe.
LARP fantasy
LARP clothing for women is based on medieval styles, but combines them freely with fantasy elements. Bodices, wide sleeves, layers and striking colours are permitted. Comfort during long days of play is a priority. Cotton, as an easy-care, affordable material, is the common choice here.
Materials in comparison: linen, wool and cotton for medieval clothing
The material determines comfort, authenticity and ease of care – if you want to choose the right medieval clothing for women, you should know the differences.
| Material | Suitability | Properties & recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Linen | Historical | Historically accurate for undergarments from all eras; highly breathable, cools in warm weather; first choice for reenactment; may shrink during initial wash – pre-washing recommended. |
| Wool | Historical | Dominant material for outer garments and winter clothing; keeps you warm even when damp, robust and durable; indispensable for High Middle Ages and Late Middle Ages reenactment. |
| Cotton | LARP | Not medieval, but an affordable introduction to LARP and medieval markets; easy to care for, machine washable at 40 °C; widely available in many cuts and colours. |
| Synthetic | – | Not recommended for medieval clothing; poor breathability, unhistorical, appears inferior in direct comparison. |
The Vehi Mercatus brand uses only natural fibres – cotton, linen and wool – and deliberately avoids synthetic blends. The fabrics are manufactured in weaving mills according to our own specifications, which has a noticeable impact on quality and feel.
Garments for every occasion: choosing the right medieval clothing for women
Depending on the occasion and your personal requirements in terms of historical accuracy, different combinations are recommended – from simple market clothing to authentic re-enactment outfits.
A simple medieval dress or a combination of a medieval blouse and cotton skirt is the easiest way to get started. A bodice over the top adds shape and a medieval look. A belt bag and simple leather shoes complete the outfit. Brands such as Battle Merchant offer solid entry-level products here.
A full dress with an undergarment, combined with a belt, belt bag and matching headgear, makes for a harmonious LARP costume. Cotton or a cotton-linen blend are well suited. Leonardo Carbone and Burgschneider offer a wide selection of cuts and colours.
For historical reenactment: linen underdress (ankle-length, long sleeves) combined with a wool overdress in a period-specific cut. Add historically accurate leather shoes with welted seams and source-based headgear (headscarf, veil or bonnet depending on the period). The Vehi Mercatus brand offers natural fibre garments that meet these requirements.
Colours, sizes and accessories: putting together a complete medieval outfit for women
A complete medieval outfit for women is created through the interplay of dress, belt, bag, footwear and headwear – and thrives on a colour scheme that was more vibrant historically than many film clichés would suggest.
Colours in the Middle Ages were vivid and diverse: blue from woad, red from madder roots, bright yellow from reseda or wau, green from a combination of plant dyes. Natural brown and unbleached linen were also used, but the widespread film cliché of a uniformly grey Middle Ages does not correspond to historical reality. So if you choose a red woollen dress or a deep blue overgarment, you are on the right side of history.
Sizes: The range includes standard sizes S to XXL or XXXL. Some lines – such as those by Leonardo Carbone – start at XS and go up to XXXXL, covering a wide spectrum.
Essential accessories for a harmonious outfit:
- Leather belt: holds the garment together and shapes the silhouette; historically documented in all eras.
- Belt bag or pouch: a functional basic element of any medieval garment, as dresses did not have pockets.
- Headwear: headscarf and veil for the early and high Middle Ages, bonnet for the high Middle Ages, cap or bonnet for the late Middle Ages – a bareheaded woman was the exception, not the rule, in the Middle Ages.
- Medieval leather shoes: round beak toe and simple lacing for the early and high Middle Ages, longer toes in the late Middle Ages; made with a flat seam for reenactment.
The combination of undergarments and outer garments can be individually adjusted: worn loosely for greater freedom of movement or laced tightly for a more pronounced silhouette – depending on the era and personal preference.
Care of medieval clothing made of linen, wool and cotton
Medieval clothing made of natural fibres will last for many years with proper care – each material has its own requirements.
Wool: Hand wash only with a pH-neutral wool detergent at a maximum temperature of 30 °C. Do not spin dry – wool can become matted under mechanical stress. Dry flat on a towel, do not hang up (as the garment will otherwise become distorted by its own weight). Do not use modern fabric softeners: they impair the natural structure of the wool fibre. Lavender in the wardrobe helps against moths.
Linen: Machine washable at 30–40 °C, but experience shows that linen shrinks slightly during the first wash. Recommendation: pre-wash the garment separately before wearing it for the first time. It is best to iron it while slightly damp – linen is then much easier to smooth out. Do not use modern fabric softeners, as they soften the fibres and reduce durability.
Cotton: The easiest of the three materials to care for. Machine washable at 40 °C without any problems. Less sensitive to spinning, dries quickly. Nevertheless, do not wash at more than 40 °C to avoid shrinkage.
Storage: Store all garments folded or on padded hangers in a dry, cool room. Never store woollen garments in airtight plastic bags – natural fibres need to breathe. Lavender sachets keep moths away without damaging the fibres.
Frequently asked questions about medieval clothing for women
Reenactment requires historically accurate materials (linen, wool), period-specific cuts and correct wearing – every detail is measured against sources. LARP prioritises comfort, durability and atmosphere; cotton is accepted, fantasy elements are allowed. Medieval markets lie somewhere in between: atmospheric clothing without strict historical requirements, often made of cotton or a cotton-linen blend. The decisive factor is the context in which the clothing is worn.
Linen (for undergarments and summer clothing) and wool (for outer garments, coats and winter clothing) are particularly well documented historically. Silk was available in the Middle Ages, but was restricted to the highest social circles and extremely expensive. Cotton is not medieval in the European context, but is now accepted as an affordable alternative material for LARP and market medieval. Synthetic fibres have no place in historical clothing.
The standard range includes sizes from S to XXL or XXXL. Some manufacturers, such as Leonardo Carbone, start at XS and offer sizes up to XXXXL, covering a wide range. The exact size specifications can be found on the product pages, as cuts and fits vary depending on the manufacturer.
The undergarment (chainse or linen shirt) is worn directly on the skin and protects the outer garment from sweat. It should always be slightly longer and wider than the outer garment. The outer garment is worn over it and held in place at the waist with a belt. Depending on the era and cut, the outer dress can be tightly laced (bliaut, cotehardie) or fall loosely over the underdress (Viking hangerock). For early medieval clothing, the outer dress is fastened at the shoulders, not belted.
The Middle Ages were much more colourful than film depictions often suggest. Blue (from woad), red (from madder), yellow (from woad or reseda), green (from mixed plant dyes) and natural brown were widely used. White and natural linen were mainly used for undergarments. Black was expensive to produce and was reserved for the high nobility or the clergy. Ordinary people wore naturally dyed or undyed fabrics, while the nobility and wealthy wore bright, vibrant colours.
From the simple linen stole of the Viking woman to the figure-hugging late medieval dress – choose the garment that suits your era, occasion and style, and complete it with matching footwear, belt and headwear for a harmonious overall look.