Medieval clothing for women - Women's garb
Medieval clothing for women is far more than just a costume – it is a carefully thought-out system comprising undergarments, outer garments, belts, headwear and footwear, which visibly reflects the era, social status and manner of wearing. Once you understand the basics, you can find the outfit that really suits you – whether for historical re-enactment, LARP or a medieval market.
Early Medieval500–1066
High Medieval1050–1250
Late Medieval1250–1500
Renaissance1400–1600
Modern era
Market-Medieval / Larptimeless
What did a woman wear in the Middle Ages? The basic structure of historical attire
The basic principle of medieval women’s clothing remained stable for centuries: worn directly against the skin, women wore a linen undergarment – the so-called chainse or linen shirt. It was longer and wider than the outer dress, protected the more expensive outer fabrics from body sweat, and was the only item of clothing that was washed regularly. Over this came the actual garment, which was structured by a belt at the waist – an element attested across all eras and social classes.
Head coverings were not an optional accessory for women, but a social norm: an uncovered head outside the home was an exception, not the rule, in the medieval context. Depending on the era, women wore simple linen headscarves and veils in the High Middle Ages, or various forms of bonnets in the Late Middle Ages.
Social status was evident in the dress: fabric, colour and cut were social codes. A peasant woman wore undyed or simply dyed woollen garments in a plain cut; a noblewoman appeared in finely woven, brightly coloured fabrics with elaborate lacing. These codes can be applied today in three areas:
- Historical re-enactment demands reconstruction that is as faithful to the sources as possible: period-specific cut, historically documented materials (linen, wool), correct wearing style.
- LARP prioritises comfort and atmosphere – cotton is accepted, and fantasy elements are permitted.
- Medieval markets lie somewhere in between: atmospheric attire without strict historical accuracy requirements, often made of cotton or a cotton-linen blend.
Linen, wool, cotton: which material suits your costume?
The material determines comfort, authenticity and maintenance requirements. Knowing the differences helps you make the right choice for the specific occasion.
| Material | Suitability | Properties & Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Linen | Historical | Historically accurate for undergarments from all eras; highly breathable, keeps you cool in warm weather; the first choice for re-enactment. Shrinks slightly on the first wash – pre-washing recommended. |
| Wool | Historical | The predominant material for outer garments and winter clothing; keeps you warm even when wet, robust and durable. Indispensable for historical re-enactment from the High Middle Ages onwards. |
| Cotton | LARP | Not medieval, but easy to care for and affordable for LARP and medieval markets; machine washable at 40°C; widely available in many styles and colours. |
| Synthetic | – | Not recommended: poor breathability, ahistorical, appears inferior in direct comparison. |
Our own brand, Vehi Mercatus, uses only natural fibres – cotton, linen and wool – and deliberately avoids synthetic blends. The fabrics are manufactured in weaving mills to our own specifications, which noticeably enhances both quality and feel.
For which occasion? Putting together medieval clothing for women according to the intended use
Depending on the occasion and your personal standards of historical accuracy, a different combination is recommended – from a straightforward starter outfit to a historically accurate re-enactment ensemble.
A simple medieval dress or a combination of a medieval cotton blouse and skirt is the easiest way to get started. A bodice worn over the top provides shape and a medieval look. A belt bag and simple leather shoes complete the outfit. Individual items are available from around €10–22, and a first complete outfit costs around €40–60.
A full dress with an underskirt, combined with a belt, belt bag and matching headwear, makes for a harmonious LARP outfit. Cotton or a cotton-linen blend are well suited. Brands such as Battle Merchant and Leonardo Carbone offer a wide selection of styles and colours here.
For historical reenactment: a linen underskirt (ankle-length, long sleeves) combined with a wool overskirt in a period-specific cut. Add historically accurate leather shoes with turned seams and a headdress based on historical sources. A complete re-enactment outfit can be put together at Vehi Mercatus for up to around €100.
Dresses, skirts, blouses and more: Which garments are part of a lady’s attire?
The overdress is the centrepiece of any lady’s attire. It can be worn as a one-piece garment or as part of a layered outfit over an underdress. The cut and length vary depending on the period: from the flowing Viking-style skirt to the figure-hugging late medieval dress with button plackets. In our range you’ll find styles from Battle Merchant, Mytholon, Leonardo Carbone and Burgschneider – in cotton, linen and wool.
The underskirt – historically known as a chainse or linen shirt – is worn directly against the skin and protects the outer garment. It should always be slightly longer and wider than the outer dress so that it peeks out visibly at the hem and sleeves. Linen is the historically correct choice here; for LARP and medieval markets, cotton is an affordable alternative.
The combination of skirt and blouse is more versatile than a one-piece dress: individual items are easier to wash, swap and mix and match. A loose-fitting linen blouse with flared sleeves and a long cotton or linen skirt make for a harmonious medieval market outfit. Wearing a bodice over the top creates a more defined silhouette.
The bodice or corset is worn over the dress or blouse and shapes the silhouette. Historically, lacing at the side or back is attested from the High Middle Ages onwards; in LARP, the bodice is a popular shaping element that enhances both the outfit and the costume. Leather bodices are sturdier and more durable than fabric ones.
A cloak or coat is indispensable for autumn and winter events – and was the most important item of outerwear in the Middle Ages. Headwear and leather shoes are essential components of any coherent outfit: without suitable footwear and the correct headdress, even the most beautiful dress looks incomplete. Depending on the era, a headscarf, veil, bonnet or cap are appropriate.
Colours, sizes and accessories: completing the costume
Historical colour schemes were more vibrant than film portrayals often suggest: blue from woad, red from madder roots, rich yellow from woad or reseda, green from mixed plant dyes – the ‘grey Middle Ages’ is a cliché. Natural brown and unbleached linen were common, but bright colours were accessible to all social classes, although the richest and most durable dyes were probably reserved for the wealthier classes.
Sizes: The range typically covers sizes S to XXL or XXXL. Some manufacturers, such as Leonardo Carbone, offer sizes from XS up to XXXXL, ensuring a wide range is covered. You can find the exact size charts on the respective product pages.
Essential accessories for a harmonious outfit:
- Leather belt: defines the silhouette and is historically documented in all eras. Without a belt, the outfit looks unfinished.
- Belt pouch or bag: a functional essential, as medieval garments did not have sewn-in pockets.
- Headwear: headscarf and veil for the Early and High Middle Ages, bonnet for the High Middle Ages, bonnet or hooded bonnet for the Late Middle Ages.
- Leather shoes: round shapes for the Early and High Middle Ages, longer toes in the Late Middle Ages; ideally made with a turned seam for re-enactment.
- Jewellery: brooches and garment clasps, armbands and hair ornaments complement the costume harmoniously and are historically documented for all periods.
Care and durability: How to keep your medieval attire looking good for a long time
Medieval garments made from natural fibres will last for many years with proper care – each material has its own specific requirements.
Wool: Hand wash only using a pH-neutral wool detergent at a maximum of 30°C. Do not spin-dry – wool can felt under mechanical stress. Dry flat on a towel, do not hang. Lavender sachets in the wardrobe keep moths away without damaging the fibres.
Linen: Machine washing at 30–40°C is possible, though experience shows that linen tends to shrink slightly on the first wash. Recommendation: pre-wash the garment separately once before wearing it for the first time. It is best to iron whilst slightly damp – linen is then much easier to smooth out.
Cotton: The easiest of the three materials to care for. Machine washing at 40°C is no problem. Do not wash above 40°C to prevent shrinkage.
Storage: Store all garments folded or on padded hangers in a dry, cool room. Never seal woollen garments airtight in plastic bags – natural fibres need air circulation.
From Viking woman to late medieval lady: eras and their clothing styles
Depending on the era depicted, the cut, silhouette and way of wearing medieval garments for women differ fundamentally.
Early Middle Ages / Vikings
The hanging skirt – also known as a strap skirt or pinafore – is worn over a long-sleeved linen underskirt and fastened at the shoulders with clasps or brooches, not belted. Wool and linen dominate. The silhouette is flowing, the colouring natural or dyed with plant-based dyes. Viking clothing for women follows these basic principles.
High Middle Ages
The bliaut is characteristic of the High Middle Ages: a fitted outer garment with lacing at the side or back, creating a more figure-hugging silhouette. Long, often flared sleeves and finer fabrics characterise courtly fashion. The lacing allows for individual adjustment of the fit and makes the garment suitable for different wearers.
Late Middle Ages
The cotehardie emphasises the body’s contours even more clearly: close-fitting, often fastened with button plackets, with a pronounced waist. The cut becomes more precise, and fashion more regional. For re-enactments of this era, thorough research of historical sources is particularly recommended, as styles differed considerably between southern and northern Europe.
LARP Fantasy
LARP attire for women is based on medieval styles, but freely combines them with fantasy elements. Bodices, wide sleeves, multiple layers and striking colours are permitted. LARP clothing for women prioritises comfort during long days of play; cotton, as an easy-care material, is the common choice here.
From simple Viking tunics to figure-hugging late medieval dresses – choose the outfit that suits your era, occasion and style, and complete the look with matching footwear, belts and headwear for a cohesive overall appearance.
Frequently asked questions
A woman in the Middle Ages wore a layered system consisting of an under-gown and an over-gown: the linen under-gown (chainse) was worn directly against the skin, with the over-gown made of wool or finer fabric worn over it, held in place at the waist by a belt. Headwear – a headscarf, veil or bonnet – was standard attire in public. The fabric, colour and cut varied considerably depending on social status.
Typical were ankle-length gowns made of wool and linen, worn in several layers one over the other. The basic principle – an under-dress plus an over-dress plus a belt – remained constant for centuries, whilst the silhouette and cut changed with the times: from the flowing Viking hangerock to the fitted High Medieval bliaut and the figure-hugging cotehardie of the Late Middle Ages.
Underneath the outer dress, women wore a linen undergarment – the so-called chainse. It was longer and wider than the outer garment, protected the more expensive outer fabrics from body sweat, and was the only item of clothing that was washed regularly. The linen undergarment is historically attested for all periods and all social classes.
In historical re-enactment, materials true to the sources (linen, wool) and period-specific cuts are mandatory – cotton is not accepted. LARP prioritises comfort and durability; cotton and fantasy elements are permitted, provided the medieval atmosphere is preserved. Medieval market attire lies somewhere in between: atmospheric clothing without strict historical accuracy requirements, often made from cotton-linen blends.
The standard range includes sizes from S to XXL or XXXL. Individual manufacturers such as Leonardo Carbone start as small as XS and offer sizes up to XXXXL, so that suitable garments can be found even outside the standard ready-to-wear sizes. The exact size charts can be found on the respective product pages, as cuts and fits vary depending on the manufacturer.
Discover related categories
Viking dresses for women
High Medieval garments for women
Medieval costumes for women
Gambesons & armour vests
Capes & cloaks
Cowls & coifs
Garment fastenings
Medieval jewellery
