Medieval brooch, ring brooch and lanyard
What is a brooch? Definition, history and function
A fibula is a garment fastener that joins two pieces of fabric or leather together – whilst also serving as a piece of jewellery. It essentially consists of two elements: the body, which determines the shape of the fibula (ring, horseshoe, disc, cloverleaf and many more), and the pin, which is threaded through the fabric to secure the fastening.
The term is derived from the Latin fibula and, in archaeology, refers to all types of garment fasteners from the Bronze Age to the Late Middle Ages. Fibulae are therefore among the most commonly found everyday objects at European archaeological sites. The oldest known examples date from the Middle Bronze Age (c. 1300 BC); in Central Europe, therefore, the brooch has been in use for over 3,000 years.
What many people do not know: a fibula does not pierce through the fabric fibres. The pin threads itself between the fibres and pushes the weave aside – if you pull the fibula out again and run your finger over the spot, the fabric closes up on its own.
The fibula must be distinguished from the brooch (purely decorative, not a functional fastener) and the agraffe (often with a hook-and-eye fastening, typical of the Renaissance and Baroque periods). The medieval fibula, on the other hand, is always functional: it holds fabrics together – and, through its material and design, indicates the social rank of its wearer. Simple iron fibulae were worn by peasants and common servants; elaborately engraved pieces made of silver or gold with inlays were reserved for the nobility.
Brooches through the ages: from the Viking Age to the Renaissance
Viking Age and Early Middle Ages
The Viking Age produced some of the best-known brooch forms. Bowl brooches (worn in pairs on the shoulder over the Viking women’s tunics) and box brooches from Gotland, as well as equal-armed brooches and cloverleaf brooches based on finds from Birka, Tranby and Saltvik, are among the most characteristic pieces of the era. In addition, bow-shaped brooches were widespread in the Frankish-Merovingian region. The brooches of this period are often richly ornamented – animal styles such as the Jelling or Borre style continue to influence many replicas to this day.
High Middle Ages
In the High Middle Ages, the ring fibula became the standard fastening for garments. At the same time, the clasp became the typical fastening at the neckline of the cotte and shirt. The designs became simpler, with the focus on solid functionality. Horseshoe fibulae made of iron and bronze are attested in large numbers in the archaeological record for this period.
Late Middle Ages
The fürspann experienced a decorative heyday in the Late Middle Ages: coloured rose-cut glass stones, enamel inlays and gilding enriched the pieces. At the same time, buttons and tassels began to gradually replace the brooch – at least for fastening sleeves and bodices.
Renaissance
During the Renaissance, the brooch largely lost its everyday function as a garment fastener. Decorative forms survived as jewellery, but were increasingly replaced by agraffes and elaborate button fastenings. Incidentally, the oldest reliably dated brooches date back to the Bronze Age – making the brooch one of the longest-lasting clothing accessories in human history.
The ring fibula and the clasp: differences and use
The ring fibula consists of a completely closed ring to which a movable pin is attached. The operating principle is based on tension: the fabric is threaded through the ring opening from the back and then threaded onto the pin. The tension of the fabric on the pin keeps the fibula closed until it is opened by hand. The more fabric is pulled through the ring, the tighter the fastening becomes.
The fürspann (also spelled fürspan, fürspange or fürspange) is essentially a small-scale ring brooch with a specific purpose: it fastens the neckline of a cotte, shirt or undergarment. Typical diameters range between 2 and 5 cm. In the High Middle Ages, the Fürspann, made of bronze or brass, was a ubiquitous feature of everyday attire – for both men and women.
The omega brooch is a special type of ring brooch whose body features an Ω-shaped opening. This opening makes it much easier to fasten, as the fabric no longer has to be fiddled through a closed ring. How to fasten:
- Hold the brooch so that the pin points away from the ring (open).
- Pass the pin through the layers of fabric to be joined.
- Fold the pin back towards the brooch.
- Pass the pin through the Ω-shaped opening.
- Twist the pin slightly so that it no longer points towards the opening – the brooch is closed.
To open: Turn the pin back, open the brooch, and remove the fabric. With a little practice, this can be done in seconds.
Materials and sizes: The right brooch for your garment
| Material | Suitability | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Bronze / Brass | Lightweight fabrics | Shirts, blouses, calf and leg wraps, neckline trims |
| Iron / Steel | Heavy fabrics | Capes and coats, furs, heavy woollen fabrics |
| Silver / silver-plated | Historical | High-quality re-enactment, Viking depictions, historically documented ring brooches |
| Gold / gold-plated | Historical | Noble re-enactments; archaeologically known as ‘gold brooches’ – showpieces from noble and royal tombs |
The gold brooch is no myth: archaeologically, brooches made of genuine gold have been found in princely graves from the Merovingian and Viking periods – such as the gold brooches from Sutton Hoo or Scandinavian hoard finds. In historical re-enactment, such pieces are depicted as gold-plated bronze replicas.
There is a simple rule of thumb for choosing the size: the thicker the fabric, the larger the ring diameter and the longer the pin. Fine fabrics such as linen shirts can be fastened with small brooches from 2–3 cm in diameter. Heavy woollen coats or furs require brooches with a diameter of 7–9 cm and a sturdy steel pin.
Brooches and garment fasteners are part of classic medieval jewellery – they complement necklaces and pendants, bracelets and bangles, as well as rings, to create a harmonious overall look.
Fibulae in re-enactment and LARP: What goes with which outfit?
A simple ring brooch or horseshoe brooch made of iron or bronze is the ideal starter piece. Versatile, robust and affordable – they reliably fasten cloaks, secure leg wraps and go with almost any historical garment from the Early to the Late Middle Ages. Hand-forged twisted ring brooches made of iron (approx. 8.5 cm in diameter) are a tried-and-tested choice for beginners.
For an authentic Viking re-enactment, women opt for pairs of shell brooches or box brooches based on finds from Birka or Gotland – these hold the wearer’s dress (hanging skirt) at the shoulders. Men wear trefoil brooches, equal-armed brooches or disc brooches based on finds from Tranby, Kaupang or the Borre style. The brooch chain between two shell brooches is typical for Viking women and also served as a holder for pendants, keys and other jewellery. You can find suitable items in our Viking brooch category and under Viking brooch chains.
For detailed High or Late Medieval re-enactments, ring brooches and clasp brooches made of bronze or silver-plated metal are ideal – at the neckline of the cotte, to fasten the linen shirt or as a decorative accent on the cloak. Late medieval brooches with coloured rose-cut glass stones or cloverleaf brooches based on historical models elevate the re-enactment to a higher level of detail. Anglo-Saxon broad-headed brooches based on finds from the Isle of Wight or Frankish bow-shaped brooches from the Merovingian period round off the range for specialised re-enactments.
An overview of brooch types: from ring brooches to spandrels
Ring brooch & horseshoe brooch
Closed ring with a movable pin – the classic par excellence. Made of iron, bronze or silver, in diameters from 3 to 9 cm. The horseshoe brooch is an open variant with outwardly curved ends, typical of the 9th–12th centuries.
Omega brooch
Ring brooch with an Ω-shaped opening in the body, making it easier to fasten. Particularly popular in Viking reenactment, as numerous original finds from Scandinavia have been preserved.
Cloverleaf brooch
Three- or four-lobed disc brooch with a characteristic cloverleaf shape. Crafted based on finds from Stora Ryk, Värnamo, Tranby and Kaupang – often decorated in the Oseberg or Borre styles.
Shell brooch & can brooch
Pairs of domed brooches worn to fasten the hanging tunic at the shoulders. The can brooch from Gotland (from the 8th century) and the bowl brooch from Saltvik and Morberg are among the most iconic pieces of Viking-era costume.
Hook brooch
Elongated brooch with a bar and base, typical of the Frankish-Merovingian period (5th–8th centuries). Cast from originals found in Frankish burial grounds, often featuring animal ornamentation.
Brooch
Small ring fibula (2–5 cm) used to fasten the neckline. In the Late Middle Ages, decorated with glass stones, enamel or engravings. One of the most frequently depicted types of fibula in medieval book illumination and panel paintings.
Disc brooch
Flat or slightly domed disc, often with rich ornamentation. The Viking disc brooch from Troendelag in the Borre style is a typical example from the 10th century.
Equal-armed fibula
Symmetrical brooch with arms of equal length, based on finds from Birka. Approx. 6–7 cm in size, made of bronze or silver-plated – one of the oldest and most widespread brooch forms of the Viking Age.
Thistle brooch & motif brooches
Brooches in plant or animal forms, such as the brass thistle brooch. Anglo-Saxon broad-headed brooches (e.g. Isle of Wight) and the Goldsborough brooch also belong to the richly decorated special forms of this group.
Whether it’s your first Viking cloak, a detailed re-enactment costume or a LARP outfit – in our range you’ll find brooches for every era, every fabric and every budget. Browse through our medieval cloak fastenings and discover the perfect clasp for your next outfit.
Frequently asked questions
A medieval brooch is a garment fastener consisting of a body (ring, disc, trefoil, etc.) and a pin. The pin is threaded through the layers of fabric and holds them together by tension. In the Middle Ages, brooches were used to fasten cloaks, coats, shirts and necklines – whilst also serving as jewellery that indicated the social rank of the wearer.
A ring fibula consists of a completely closed ring with a movable pin. The fabric is threaded through the ring from behind and onto the pin. The tension of the fabric on the pin keeps the fibula closed – without any additional fastening mechanism. The more fabric is pulled through the ring, the tighter the fastening becomes.
The Fürspann (also known as a Fürspan or Fürspange) is essentially a small-scale ring brooch with a typical diameter of 2–5 cm. It was used specifically to fasten the neckline of a cotte or shirt. Ring brooches can be significantly larger (up to 9 cm and more) and are primarily used to fasten capes and coats.
The main types of brooches are: ring brooches, horseshoe brooches, omega brooches, Fürspann/Fürspange, shell brooches, box brooches, cloverleaf brooches, disc brooches, equal-arm brooches, bar brooches and thistle brooches. They differ in shape, period and intended use. Viking-era brooches are often ornate, whilst High Medieval ring brooches are usually simpler and more functional.
The rule of thumb is: the thicker the fabric, the larger the ring diameter and the longer the pin. Fine linen shirts and calf wraps can be fastened with small brooches from 2–3 cm in diameter. For heavy woollen coats or furs, brooches with a diameter of 7–9 cm made of steel or iron are recommended. Bronze and brass are suitable for light fabrics, steel for heavy materials.