Medieval headgear: hat, cap and more
In the Middle Ages, headwear was not an optional accessory but an integral part of everyday attire – for peasants and commoners as well as for the nobility and clergy. Which bonnet, hat or cap you choose for your outfit depends on the period, gender and occasion – this overview will help you make the right choice.
Headwear in the Middle Ages: significance, function and social status
Leaving the house with one’s head uncovered was considered improper in the Middle Ages – and this applied equally to men and women, to the day labourer in the fields as well as to the townswoman or the knight. Headwear always served two purposes: it protected against wind, sun and cold, and it signalled the wearer’s social status even before a word was spoken.
The lower classes wore caps made of felted wool or simple straw hats – inexpensive to make and practical for everyday life. The nobility, on the other hand, could afford elaborately decorated hats made of velvet and silk, trimmed with gold cords, brooches or feathers. These differences were not a matter of personal taste, but were partly regulated by dress codes.
A particular social convention applied to women: a married woman wore a bonnet or veil as a sign of her status – hence the saying ‘to be under the bonnet’. Unmarried women and young girls were sometimes permitted to wear their hair loose or adorned with a headband. Wearing hats was a matter of course for all social classes in the Middle Ages – the question was simply of what material and in what form.
What headwear was there in the Middle Ages? An overview by type
Cowls & hooded shawls
The gugel is a combination of a hood and shoulder covering – it protected against rain and cold and was a real fashion statement in the 14th century. It later evolved into the chaperon. Today, the hooded scarf is its direct successor in LARP and market outfits.
Cowl & coif
The coif, also known as a hood, is a close-fitting linen hood worn directly on the head – usually under a hat, cap or veil. It was common for both men and women and also served as a protective lining under a helmet.
Veils, headdresses & fillets
Veils and headbands were standard items in women’s wardrobes during the High and Late Middle Ages. The headband – a white linen chin strap – identified a married woman. The fillet, a narrow headband, elegantly secured the veil. Generally speaking, medieval headwear is classified by type: bonnet, hood, cap, hat or veil.
Straw and felt hats
The straw hat provided protection from the sun whilst working in the fields and was inexpensive to make. Felt hats were more robust and could also be worn in winter. Both styles are among the oldest and most widespread headwear across all eras and social classes.
Beret & cap
The beret is a flat, cap-like headdress that emerged in the late Middle Ages and reached its peak during the Renaissance. It was worn by men of the urban middle class and the nobility and is now a characteristic feature of late medieval outfits.
Early Middle Ages and Vikings: Caps, Hats and Hoods of the North
The Early Middle Ages present re-enactors with particular challenges: pictorial sources are scarce, and we know of many head coverings from this period only through archaeological finds and their reconstructions. For the Vikings and the inhabitants of the Early Medieval North, pointed caps (known from the Rus region) and more compact woollen caps can be attested. The Birka cap is considered one of the best-known reconstructions and serves well as the basis for a period-appropriate early medieval outfit.
The materials of this period were primarily wool and fur – leather was occasionally used, whilst linen was more commonly employed as a lining. Anyone interested in Viking clothing should narrow their research down to a specific region and period: a 9th-century Norwegian Viking dressed differently from a Rus merchant or a Danish warrior. Basic research into time and place remains essential for historically accurate representations.
High Middle Ages and Late Middle Ages: hoods, cowls, veils and berets
High Middle Ages: bonnet and veil
The bonnet, made of white or off-white linen, was the universal under-headwear for both men and women. It was rarely worn on its own, but served as a base under hats, hoods and veils. For women in the High Middle Ages, the veil, in combination with the gebende – a linen chin tie – was mandatory: it signified married status and explains the saying ‘to be under the bonnet’ to this day. The gebende was fastened with gebende pins and sat close to the face.
The gugel becomes a fashion trend
In the 14th century, the gugel rose to become a true fashion staple. Men and women wore them in bright colours and various styles. The gugel eventually evolved into the chaperon – a more elaborate headdress created by wearing the gugel twisted, which shaped the fashion of the late Middle Ages.
Late Middle Ages: berets and urban fashion
The beret became established in the late Middle Ages as a fashionable headdress for the urban population and the upper middle classes. It became even more popular during the Renaissance. At the same time, the bonnet and veil remained an integral part of women’s attire. The headwear worn by married women in the Middle Ages was known as a bonnet or banded bonnet – close-fitting, made of linen, and often combined with a chin strap.
A comparison of materials: wool, linen and cotton for medieval headwear
| Material | Historical suitability | Typical use | Care |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wool | Historically documented | Bowlers, caps, felt hats, beanies | Beat out or brush out; hand wash if necessary |
| Linen | Historically documented | Headdresses, veils, bonnets, fillets | Washable, can be ironed at high temperature |
| Cotton | Modern interpretation | Hooded scarves, veils, hooded variants | Machine washable, easy care |
| Cotton/linen (padded) | Historical protective function | Padded hoods worn under helmets | Washable at 30–40 °C |
Throughout the Middle Ages, wool was the most commonly used material for headwear – it is warm, retains its shape and can be processed into felt. Linen dominated in linings and veils: lightweight, breathable and historically accurate. Cotton is a modern interpretation that is cheaper to produce and remains visually close to historical models. It is particularly widespread today for hooded scarves and gugelns. Padded hoods made from a cotton-linen blend also serve a practical protective function under helmets.
Headwear for medieval festivals and LARP: what goes with which outfit?
For your first visit to a market without a specific period focus, a banded hood or a simple straw hat are ideal. Both are inexpensive (from around €10), versatile and go well with many outfits. If you’re heading to a medieval festival, you can’t go wrong with a simple linen bonnet or a straw hat paired with a medieval outfit. Complete the look with a belt and matching shoes – then the overall look is spot on.
In LARP, hoods and hooded scarves are true all-rounders. They suit merchants, adventurers, thieves’ guild characters and simple villagers just as well as rangers or minor nobles. The long ends of a hooded scarf can be draped in various ways. For warrior characters wearing a helmet, a padded helmet liner is also recommended as an underlay – it sits comfortably and cushions blows.
For re-enactment, the rule is: the narrower the temporal and regional focus, the better the portrayal. The coif made of white linen is well documented for both men and women in the 12th and 13th centuries. The gugel dominated the 14th century. For ladies in the High Middle Ages, veils and headdresses are the historically correct choice. The beret belongs to the late Middle Ages from the 15th century onwards. We recommend that re-enactors carry out basic research into the region and period – the differences between the eras are considerable.
A headdress only looks complete when the rest of the outfit is right too. Complement your bonnet or hood with a pouch or bag on your belt, matching shoes and – if necessary – a cloak or coat for cold days. Paying attention to accessories turns a simple garment into a harmonious overall look.
Medieval headwear for women: veils, fillets, bonnets and caps
The veil is the most versatile basic element of women’s headwear across all eras. It can be draped over the head, secured with a headband or worn under a hat. Made from fine linen, it is light, flowing and has been documented historically for centuries.
The fillet is a narrow headband – often made of linen – which holds the veil in place on the head whilst simultaneously forming an elegant frame for the face. It is particularly suitable for High Medieval re-enactments and can be easily combined with various types of veil.
The gebende is the typical headdress of a married woman in the Middle Ages. This chin-tie made of white linen was placed tightly around the face and fastened to the hair or clothing with gebende pins. It covered the chin and cheeks and was widespread in the High Middle Ages – no other garment signalled marital status so clearly.
Head coverings ranged from the simple linen bonnet worn by peasant women to the embroidered cap-style headdresses worn by wealthier townswomen. For women in the Middle Ages, the range of head coverings thus included veils, Gebende, bonnets, fillets and headdresses in various combinations – depending on the period, region and social status.
Whether you’re putting together your first outfit for the medieval market or, as an experienced re-enactor, looking for a historically accurate headpiece – our range includes coifes, hoods, veils, caps and hats for all eras and occasions. Take a look around and complete your costume with the perfect headpiece.
Frequently asked questions
In the Middle Ages, there was a wide variety: coifs, hoods, veils, bonnets, fillets, straw hats, felt caps and berets. The choice depended on the era, social status and gender. The lower classes wore felt caps and straw hats, whilst the nobility and townspeople had access to elaborately decorated styles made of velvet and silk.
Depending on the type, each has its own name: the coif is a close-fitting linen cap. The gugel is a hooded shawl. The gebende is the chin-tie worn by married women. The beret is a flat cap from the late Middle Ages. The term ‘headwear’ encompasses all these forms.
For a visit to a medieval market, a simple bonnet or a straw hat is recommended as an easy way to get started. Combined with a medieval tunic or dress, a belt and matching shoes, this creates a harmonious overall look. Those wishing to delve deeper can further refine their outfit with a gugel or veil.
The typical headwear for married women in the Middle Ages was the bonnet or banded bonnet, often combined with the ‘Gebende’ – a chin strap made of white linen. The saying ‘to be under the bonnet’ stems precisely from this tradition. It was fastened to the head with Gebende pins and clearly signalled marital status.
Historically, wool was the most common material – felted for caps and hats, woven for hoods. Linen dominated in bonnets, veils and chin ties. Silk and velvet were reserved for the nobility. Today, modern reproductions also use cotton and cotton-linen blends, which are easy to care for and visually close to the historical models.