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Nesting cords

Nesting cord single-coloured
Nesting cord single-coloured
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What is a cord? – Function and history

Was ist eine Nestelschnur? – Funktion und Geschichte

A nestel cord – also known as a nestel ribbon, lace or braided cord – is a braided or knotted cord that was used in the Middle Ages to fasten and tie garments. The term is derived from the Middle High German word nestel, which simply means ‘ribbon’ or ‘cord’. In modern usage, shoelaces are also occasionally referred to as ‘nestels’ – though the original meaning was much broader.

Nestel cords first appeared in the 12th century, as figure-hugging fashion began to spread. Since a modern trouser waistband was completely unknown in everyday medieval clothing, trousers, leggings and other garments were fastened to the upper body with cords – this principle is known as ‘annestelieren’. Loose sleeves, bodices and fastenings on garments were also held together with nestel cords.

At the ends of the cords were often so-called nestle tips – also known as aiguillettes or nestle pins. These small, often metal sleeves were riveted or sewn onto the ends of the cords and served a dual purpose: they prevented the ends of the cords from fraying and made it easier to thread them through narrow nestle holes. At the same time, they served a decorative purpose – particularly in courtly attire, nestle tips made of brass, bronze or even gilded metal were a status symbol.

Single-coloured, two-coloured or with lace – which nestle cord for which purpose?

Single-colour cord ends
  • Subtle and understated
  • Ideal for simpler garments and everyday wear
  • Invisible or barely noticeable fastenings
  • Suitable for attaching trousers and concealed fastenings
  • Available in various single colours (purple, light blue, turquoise, etc.)
Two-tone lacing cords
  • Historically documented, particularly widespread in the High Middle Ages
  • Visibly decorative – ideal for bodices, sleeve lacing and corsets
  • Adds a visual accent to the garment through colour contrast
  • Available in combinations such as light blue/dark blue, light blue/red, turquoise/black
  • Suitable for LARP and re-enactment alike

The lacing cords offered here are supplied without tips and are available by the metre – so you can choose exactly the length you need for your costume. If you prefer ready-made cords with brass tips attached, you will find these in the ‘Lacing cords incl. tips’ category. The cord ends themselves are also available separately – so you can mix and match cords and ends to suit your cord holes.

Historical context: When were cord ties used?

From the 12th century

High Middle Ages – emergence of lacing

With the spread of form-fitting clothing, the first lacing cords emerged. Trousers were laced to tunics and shirts, as waistband solutions were unknown. The first metal lacing tips appeared.

13th–15th centuries

The heyday of the lacing cord

Lacing reaches its peak popularity. Multicoloured lacing cords become established as a decorative element, particularly in women’s clothing, bodices and surcoats. The lacing of detached sleeves is also widespread during this period.

15th–16th centuries

Late Middle Ages and Renaissance

The lacing technique remains prevalent during the transition to the Renaissance. Puff sleeves, corsets and elaborate court attire continue to utilise lacing cords. Lacing tips become increasingly elaborate in design – sometimes gilded or embellished.

Early Middle Ages

Vikings and the Early Middle Ages

In the Early Middle Ages, lacing was less common – brooches, braids and simple fastenings dominated. Anyone recreating Viking attire should limit the use of cord lacing to later periods.

Material and construction: cotton, silk and hand-knotting technique

Material Suitability Construction
100% cotton – plain Historical Hand-knotted, for everyday and re-enactment garments of all social classes
100% cotton – two-tone Historical LARP Hand-knotted, decorative visible lacing, colour contrast for bodice & sleeves
Mulberry silk – single-coloured (red) Historical Hand-knotted, for sophisticated portrayals of the nobility or wealthy classes

All laces in this range are hand-knotted – not mass-produced machine-woven items, but laces made from 100% natural fibres based on historical models. The mulberry silk variant is the highest-quality option in the category: in the Middle Ages, silk was reserved for the nobility and the wealthy bourgeoisie – anyone seeking an authentic historical representation will find this version historically accurate.

The sold-by-the-metre concept gives you complete flexibility: the cords are sold in 10-cm units and can be combined to any length. This means you can order exactly the amount your costume requires – without any unnecessary waste.

Using lacing cords correctly: lengths, lacing holes and assembly

The length required depends heavily on the application. For simple trouser lacing (2–4 lacing points), 40–60 cm per cord is usually sufficient. For a bodice with many eyelets, allow roughly double the distance between the eyelets plus some leeway for the bow. As a rule of thumb: it’s better to order a little extra – lacing cord sold by the metre can easily be shortened, but not lengthened.

Standard lacing cords have a diameter of around 2–4 mm. The lacing holes should be at least 4–5 mm in diameter so that the cord can be threaded through effortlessly. If the hole diameter is small, lacing tips at the ends are recommended – they bundle the end of the cord like a needle and make threading much easier.

The simplest method is to pierce the fabric with an awl and then hem the hole with a buttonhole stitch to prevent fraying. Alternatively, metal eyelets can be inserted – this is less historically accurate, but perfectly adequate for LARP costumes and very practical. For re-enactment performances, a hand-sewn hemmed hole is recommended.

Yes – cord ends are available separately and can be crimped onto the ends of the cord using pliers or sewn on with fine thread. Ensure that the inner diameter of the cord end matches the diameter of the cord. Most brass cord ends are designed for cords up to approx. 3–4 mm in diameter.

Tassel cords in the Middle Ages: where and how were they used?

Nestelschnüre im Mittelalter: Wo und wie wurden sie eingesetzt?

The range of uses for lacing cords in everyday medieval clothing was far more diverse than is often assumed today. The best-known application is the lacing of trousers: as trouser waistbands as we know them were unknown, breeches and leggings were fastened with cords to the shirt, the cotte or the doublet. Anyone who wears medieval trousers or leggings is familiar with this principle from personal experience.

Bodices and the precursors to corsets were also laced with drawstrings – particularly from the 13th century onwards, when emphasising a narrow waist became increasingly important in women’s attire. Anyone wearing a medieval dress or bodice will come to recognise drawstrings as an indispensable part of the outfit.

Another important use was fastening loose sleeves. In the High and Late Middle Ages, sleeves were often not sewn in permanently but made separately and attached to the outer garment – this allowed for flexibility when putting on and taking off the garment, as well as when combining different items of clothing. Different sleeves could thus be combined with the same bodice.

Furthermore, cord ties served as decorative elements – worn visibly on clothing, much like an accessory today. Colour and material were no random choice: whilst the lower classes used cords made of cotton or linen, silk was reserved for the nobility and the upper middle classes. The choice of cord tie was therefore also a visible statement of social status and wealth.

For a complete medieval ladies’ costume or a harmonious men’s outfit, cord ties are among the small details that make all the difference – together with matching haberdashery for the costume, such as medieval buttons or fastenings.

All drawstrings from Vehi Mercatus are hand-knotted and available by the metre – you can order exactly the length you need. If you have any questions about the correct length, the right material or related product categories (lacing cords including tips and lacing tips sold separately), you can reach our team Mon–Fri 8am–12pm and 1pm–3pm. Shop with confidence: 30-day return policy and Trusted Shops membership included.

Whether for a simple garment or a detailed re-enactment outfit – with Vehi Mercatus’s hand-knotted laces, you have the perfect historical lacing solution at your fingertips. Choose your colour, calculate your length and browse our range of laces including brass tips or the separately available lace tips for a complete look.

Frequently asked questions

A lacing cord – also known as a drawstring or lace – is a braided or knotted cord that was used in the Middle Ages to fasten and tie garments. The term is derived from the Middle High German ‘nestel’ (= ribbon, cord). Lacing cords were used to fasten trousers, bodices, sleeves and other items of clothing that had to manage without modern fastenings such as buttons or zips.

Nestel pins – also known as nestel tips or aiguillettes – are small, usually metal sleeves that are attached to the ends of a nestel cord. They serve two purposes: they prevent the cord ends from fraying and make threading through narrow nestel holes considerably easier. Historically, nestle tips were made of brass, bronze or pewter – and in the case of courtly attire, also of gilded materials.

The required length depends on the specific application. For fastening trousers (2–4 attachment points), 40–60 cm per cord is usually sufficient. For a bodice, calculate double the distance between the holes plus some leeway for the bow. As the lacing cords at Vehi Mercatus are available by the metre in 10-cm increments, you can order the exact length required.

Lacing cords without tips (this category) are plain cords that you can buy by the metre in any length and finish yourself. Lacing cords with brass tips come ready-made – with metal sleeves fitted at both ends. The latter are particularly suitable if you do not wish to attach tips separately or if you have small lacing holes that require a sturdy end.

Historically, lacing cords made of linen, cotton, wool and silk are documented. Silk was reserved for the nobility and the wealthy bourgeoisie, whilst the lower classes relied on cotton and linen. Vehi Mercatus’ hand-knotted cord ties are made from 100% cotton (single-colour and two-colour) and, in a special edition, from mulberry silk – both historically authentic natural fibres.

Discover related categories

Lace overview Single-colour lace cord Two-colour lace cord Medieval sewing supplies Needle and thread

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