Late medieval shoes
Late medieval shoes are far more than just footwear – they reflect the fashion tastes, social status and craftsmanship of an era that shaped Europe between the 13th and 15th centuries. Whether for re-enactment, living history or medieval markets: anyone wishing to present an authentic image needs footwear that is both historically accurate and suitable for everyday wear.
What is the Late Middle Ages – and why does footwear play a special role in it?
The Late Middle Ages roughly span from the mid-13th to the end of the 15th century – a transitional phase in which Romanesque simplicity was increasingly replaced by Gothic stylisation. This development did not stop at footwear. Whilst earlier centuries featured simple, flat soles without any distinctive shaping, late medieval shoemakers began to consciously design form and function.
Shoes became a status symbol in the Late Middle Ages: the length of the pointed toe – the distinctive, forward-extending toe area of so-called pointed shoes – signalled rank and wealth. The longer the toe, the higher the wearer’s social standing was often. Towards the end of the 15th century, with the transition to the early modern period, fashion changed once again: wide, flat shoe shapes such as the so-called ‘bear claws’ (also known as ‘ox mouths’ or ‘cow mouths’) replaced the pointed silhouettes.
For a coherent medieval costume, footwear is the detail that makes a depiction from the knee downwards credible – or, conversely, reveals that the subject has been approached only superficially.
An overview of the main types of shoes from the late Middle Ages
London type
Based on finds from medieval London: flat lacing, simple silhouette, welted construction. A classic for the 13th–15th centuries, well-suited to both men and women.
Strap shoes
Individual leather straps with buckle fastenings wrap around the instep. Very common throughout the late Middle Ages, comfortable and visually versatile – ranging from simple everyday shoes to more formal styles.
Buckle shoes
Distinctive feature: side or central buckles made of brass or bronze. Well-documented historically, they pair well with late medieval men’s attire and high-quality depictions.
Cuff boots
High shaft with characteristic turn-up (cuff) – typical of horsemen, merchants and the upper classes from the 14th century onwards. More elaborate construction, correspondingly higher price; ideal for representative depictions.
Children’s models
Late medieval shoes are also available for the youngest re-enactors: children’s models in the London style, in sizes from 26 upwards, allow for harmonious family appearances at the medieval market.
Fit, sizes and care: What you should know before buying
The range includes adult sizes from EU 36 to 46, with children’s sizes available from 26 to 34. Leather is a living material: over time, it stretches slightly and moulds to the foot. Breaking in new leather shoes is part of the process and is not a fault. If in doubt, choose half a size smaller – especially with narrow-fitting styles.
Late medieval shoes were historically worn with woollen socks or foot wraps (foot flaps). If you use these in your re-enactment, you should take this into account when trying on shoes – depending on their thickness, woollen socks can add up to half a shoe size. Thinner socks for entry-level models, thicker ones for winter events.
Leather shoes should be treated regularly with a suitable leather grease – this keeps the material supple and significantly extends its lifespan. Avoid storing them in damp conditions, as mould can cause permanent damage to the leather. After wearing them in the rain, allow the shoes to dry at room temperature, not on a radiator.
Historical leather soles naturally offer less cushioning than modern sports shoes. Those who are on their feet all day at events can use thin insoles – the so-called ‘SpäMi insoles’ tip is widely known in the scene. Important: Do not choose insoles that are too thick, so that the lacing or strap fastening still fits.
Colours and finishes: Natural brown, dark brown and Cordovan red
- Natural brown: undyed, ungreased – shows off the natural grain of the leather in all its character
- Dark brown: hand-dyed for an antique look, dyed in-house at our workshop in Rinchnach
- Both variants develop a unique patina over time – this is part of the character of genuine leather shoes
- Suitable for most late medieval depictions, from ordinary citizens to merchants
- Historically particularly widespread in the late Middle Ages – named after the leather from Córdoba (Cordoba, Spain), which was famous for its quality
- Red footwear was regarded as a status symbol and is historically documented for high-status depictions – nobility, patricians, wealthy merchants
- It also develops a characteristic patina and takes on a deeper, darker hue over time
- For Cordovan Red, a colour-enhancing leather care product in a matching shade is recommended to preserve the colour
For which occasions and budgets – an overview of price ranges
Children’s London-style models from around €49 offer solid quality for market visits and first living history experiences. Adult models with a simple nailed leather sole start from approx. €80 – a good entry point for occasional visitors to medieval events or newcomers to the scene.
Lace-up shoes, buckled shoes and models with double soles fall into this price range. The double sole with studded tread prevents direct wear on the leather and noticeably extends the lifespan – the more sensible choice for active re-enactors who attend several events per season.
Cuff boots and elaborately constructed designs for equestrian re-enactments or representative characters start at around €138. These shoes incorporate more leather, more handcrafting and a more complex construction – ideal for living history groups with high standards of authenticity and events lasting several weeks, such as military camps or castle festivals.
How late medieval shoes are made: welted construction, soles and construction
| Construction feature | Design | Significance |
|---|---|---|
| Inverted-seam construction | Historically documented | The shoe is sewn together on the inside, then turned out – barely visible outer seam, historically accurate technique from the Middle Ages |
| Simply nailed leather sole | Entry level / LARP | Upper leather and sole are joined using the through-nailing method – robust and durable, easier to repair |
| Double sole with profiled nailing | Reenactment | A second layer of leather sole protects the first from abrasion; patterned nails grip the ground and significantly extend the shoe’s lifespan |
| Upper | Cowhide | Exclusively genuine leather – no imitation leather, no synthetics; breathable and retains its shape |
| Lining | Leather | Leather lining regulates moisture and moulds to the foot as it is broken in; more comfortable than textile alternatives |
| Sole material | Full leather | Pure leather construction with no rubber or synthetics – authentic and repairable by a cobbler |
Late medieval shoes made from genuine leather are an investment in historical authenticity and practical durability – whether on the re-enactment field, at a living history event or at a medieval market. Browse through our range and find the model that suits your portrayal.
Frequently asked questions
In the late Middle Ages (approx. 13th–15th centuries), flat leather shoes with lacing or strap fastenings were widespread. Typical styles include the so-called London type (based on archaeological finds), strap shoes with buckles, and buckled shoes with brass or bronze buckles. From the 14th century onwards, cuffed boots with turned-up shafts were characteristic of horsemen and the upper classes.
With a single-nailed leather sole, the upper leather and sole are joined directly using the through-nailing method – this results in a robust, durable shoe. The double sole with profiled nailing adds a second layer of leather sole, which prevents direct wear on the main sole leather. For occasional wearers, the single sole is sufficient; those who regularly attend events will benefit from the double sole.
In turn-sewing, the shoe is first sewn together on the inside and then turned inside out. This means the seam lies on the inside, the exterior appears smooth and the seams are barely visible. This technique is historically documented for the Middle Ages and results in a particularly elegant shoe with a snug fit.
The shoes are available in natural brown (undyed, natural leather grain), dark brown (hand-dyed with an antique finish) and Corduan red. Corduan refers to a high-quality leather from the Spanish city of Córdoba, which was particularly prized in the Middle Ages. Red footwear was regarded as a status symbol and is historically well documented for high-status figures – nobility, patricians or wealthy citizens.
The range includes adult sizes EU 36–46 and children’s sizes 26–34. As leather stretches slightly over time and moulds to the foot, we recommend choosing the smaller size if you are unsure. If you plan to wear woollen socks or foot wraps – both historically accurate – you should take these into account when trying on the shoes, as they can add up to half a size depending on their thickness.