Early medieval shoes
Viking shoes and early medieval shoes for re-enactment, LARP and medieval markets
Viking shoes and early medieval shoes are far more than just costume accessories – they are well-documented footwear, based on archaeological finds, which was worn throughout north-western Europe from the 6th to the 11th century. Finds from excavation sites such as Haithabu in Schleswig-Holstein or Viking-era York (Jorvik) now provide detailed insights into construction, materials and regional variations. Whether Viking shoes of the Jorvik type, reversible shoes from Haithabu or nailed boot-style shoes from the Anglo-Saxon region: anyone interested in the Early Middle Ages will find the right footwear here for every purpose.
What kind of shoes did Vikings and early medieval people wear?
The archaeological finds from Haithabu, York/Jorvik and other excavation sites paint a consistent picture: early medieval footwear consisted almost exclusively of leather – primarily cowhide, but goat and pigskin are also attested. Typical construction principles included one-piece or two-piece designs, often made as reversible shoes: the seam was sewn on the outside and the finished shoe was then turned inside out, so that the seam was on the inside and the shoe had a smooth outer surface.
Contrary to popular film portrayals, Viking men did not wear high-top boots with buckles or elaborate decorations. Instead, there is evidence of low-cut shoes that left the ankle exposed or covered it only slightly, as well as short ankle boots. They were fastened using simple straps, side lacing or small ankle loops. This simplicity was not a sign of poverty – it reflects the practical everyday footwear of a mobile, seafaring society that required sturdy and lightweight footwear.
Those interested in the complete look will find suitable additions in Viking clothing, as well as Viking calf wraps and leg wraps, which were historically often worn in combination with such shoes.
The main types: Jorvik, Haithabu and lace-up shoes at a glance
Jorvik type
Named after Viking-era York (Old Norse: Jorvik), this type is characterised by a distinctive curved toe cap. The finds from the Coppergate excavation in York are among the best-documented Viking-era shoe finds of all and form the basis for many modern reconstructions. The Jorvik shoe is documented as a low shoe with an ankle strap or simple loop fastening.
Haithabu type
The trading town of Haithabu on the Schlei was one of the most important trading centres of the early medieval North. The shoes found there are classic reversible shoes: soft, silent, and close-fitting. The Haithabu type is considered a particularly authentic choice for re-enactment and living history of the early medieval Scandinavian period and is the preferred variant for museum displays.
Lace-up shoes
Typical of the Anglo-Saxon and West Germanic regions are lace-up shoes with side lacing or ankle straps. The silhouette is slightly sturdier than that of the Jorvik type, and the fastening is more robust. Lace-up shoes are particularly suitable for re-enactments of the Germanic and Frankish early Middle Ages and can be easily combined with Germanic clothing.
Colours and leather: natural brown, dark brown, cordovan red and black
The colouring of early medieval footwear was not arbitrary – it reflected both the available tanning methods and the social status of the wearer. The range includes four shades, all of which are historically plausible:
| Colour | Historical classification | Suitability |
|---|---|---|
| Natural brown | Historically documented | The standard shade of undyed, vegetable-tanned leather – the most common colour in archaeological finds. Ideal for all periods and regions of the Early Middle Ages. |
| Dark brown | Historically plausible | A shade achievable through tanning processes or vegetable dyes. A good all-round choice for re-enactment and markets. |
| Cordovan red | Status colour, historically documented | Corduan refers to fine goatskin from the tradition of Andalusian leatherworking. In the early Middle Ages, red shoes were regarded as a status symbol of the upper classes – suitable for portrayals of jarls or chieftains. |
| Black | Historically possible | Achievable through iron salts or special tanning processes. For depictions where a uniform, dark appearance is desired. |
Many shoes are hand-dyed at Vehi Mercatus in Rinchnach, giving each piece a unique antique look. Those who pay particular attention to the colour effect will find suitable leather dye and leather grease in the range to adjust or refresh the colour intensity as desired.
Sole construction: nailed double sole, single nailing and rubber sole
The sole construction is a key factor in determining durability, authenticity and suitability for everyday use. There are four variants to choose from in the range:
- Reversible shoes (reversible sole): The oldest technique – seam sewn on the outside, then turned inside out. Soft, silent, close-fitting. Highest historical authenticity for Haithabu-style and living history.
- Single-nailed leather sole: A sturdy everyday solution. The upper leather is attached to an extra-thick leather sole using the through-nailing method. A good balance of weight and stability, tried and tested for military camps and markets.
- Nailed double sole: Two layers of leather plus tread nailing – the most robust construction in the range. No direct friction between the ground and the actual upper leather, significantly longer lifespan. Recommended for frequent use on uneven ground.
- Rubber sole: Not historically accurate, but practical for many occasions: non-slip on cobblestones, more waterproof than leather soles, low-maintenance. Ideal for use on city pavements, in bad weather or when the shoe is worn outside a medieval context.
- Rubber sole variants are particularly suitable for LARP players and market visitors who prioritise comfort over strict authenticity.
- For museum displays and strict re-enactment groups, leather or reversible soles are the more historically accurate choice.
Fit and sizes: Women’s and men’s, sizes 36 to 47
The range covers women’s and men’s sizes from 36 to 47, so there is a suitable size for almost every foot. Early medieval shoes were historically worn very tightly – without insoles and directly on the leather. Those accustomed to modern footwear should bear in mind that new leather has not yet been broken in and the shoe may feel tight during the first few hours of wear. Recommendation: for half sizes, choose one size larger so that the leather has room to stretch as it breaks in.
Leather is a living material and moulds itself to the individual shape of the foot over time – after a few wears, a well-chosen leather shoe will fit like a glove. If you wish to speed up the breaking-in process, wear the shoe for a few hours whilst slightly damp or treat it beforehand with leather grease to soften the leather.
What occasions are early medieval shoes suitable for?
For your first visit to a medieval market or a LARP weekend. Simple nailed leather sole or rubber sole, Jorvik style in natural brown or dark brown. No prior knowledge required – the shoes go with almost any early medieval outfit.
For regular LARP events and medieval markets. Nailed leather sole or rubber sole for cobblestones, robust construction. Comfort and durability are the priority; historical accuracy is a nice bonus.
For military camps, museum displays and strict reenactment groups. Haithabu reversible shoes or Jorvik-style with nailed double sole, historically verifiable colour (natural brown or Cordovan red), combined with Viking clothing for men or Viking clothing for women for a cohesive overall look.
Care and durability of your leather shoes
Leather shoes are durable if they are cared for regularly. Immediately after purchase, we recommend an initial treatment with leather grease or beeswax – this closes the pores, protects against moisture and makes the leather more supple for the breaking-in process. After that, a treatment every few weeks is sufficient, depending on how often you wear them.
Never dry wet shoes directly on a radiator or in the oven – this makes the leather brittle and prone to cracking. Allow them to dry slowly at room temperature, ideally using a shoe tree or stuffed newspaper sheets to maintain their shape. The studs on double-soled models effectively protect the leather sole from direct abrasion – if they become heavily worn, they can be re-hammered by a cobbler, which significantly extends the life of the shoe.
To complement your shoe care routine, our range also includes woollen socks made from genuine wool, which were historically worn with early medieval leather shoes and significantly enhance comfort.
Whether you’re looking for your first pair of Viking shoes or planning a historically accurate reconstruction based on the Haithabu find – browse through over 200 models in natural brown, dark brown, cordovan red and black to find the shoes that suit your outfit and occasion.
Frequently asked questions
Archaeological finds from Haithabu and York/Jorvik show that Vikings mainly wore low-cut shoes and short leather ankle boots. These were often made as reversible shoes – the seam was sewn on the outside and the shoe was then turned inside out. High-top boots, as are often seen in films, are not evidenced by finds from the Viking Age.
Both types are Viking-era reversible shoes, but differ in cut and origin. The Jorvik type is named after finds from Viking-era York and is characterised by a curved toe cap. The Haithabu type originates from the important trading town on the Schlei in Schleswig-Holstein and has a somewhat simpler cut. Both are considered historically well-documented reconstructions.
For medieval markets on cobblestones, a rubber sole is practical as it is non-slip and low-maintenance. Those who value authenticity are well advised to choose a nailed double sole – the studs protect the leather from abrasion and significantly extend its lifespan. For museum displays and strict re-enactment groups, reversible shoes with leather soles are the most historically accurate choice.
The range includes women’s and men’s sizes from 36 to 47. As early medieval shoes were historically worn very tight and new leather has not yet been broken in, it is advisable to choose one size larger for half sizes. After a few hours of wear, the leather will mould to the shape of your foot.
Immediately after purchase, the shoes should be treated with leather grease or beeswax to protect the leather and facilitate the breaking-in process. Wet shoes must be dried slowly at room temperature – do not use a heater, as this will cause the leather to become brittle. A shoe tree or stuffed newspapers will help to maintain the shape. For models with studded soles, worn studs can be replaced by a cobbler.