Medieval jewellery accessories
Medieval jewellery thrives on its details – and this is precisely where the accessories come in: chain dividers, beads, connectors and settings are the unseen craftsmen behind every harmonious piece of costume jewellery, whether for re-enactment, LARP or medieval markets.
What are jewellery accessories in a medieval context?
Jewellery accessories refer to the functional and decorative components from which a piece of jewellery is first created or completed. These include chain dividers that bundle several strands at a single point, connecting links made of bronze or brass, beads of various materials, and settings for stones or pendants.
It is important to distinguish these from finished pieces such as rings, brooches or chains: whilst a finished piece of medieval jewellery can be worn straight away, accessories allow for customisation, repair or the addition of elements to existing chains and necklaces. This option is particularly valued in re-enactment and LARP: those who build their costume piece by piece often turn to individual components to achieve a personalised result. Recreating historically documented finds also works much better with the right accessories than with ready-made off-the-shelf chains.
What jewellery was worn in the Middle Ages?
Jewellery has been part of human life since the Stone Age – in the Middle Ages, it was far more than mere decoration. Typical types of jewellery included brooches for fastening garments, rings, bracelets, necklaces with pendants, and hair ornaments. Beads played a central role: they were strung into necklaces, embroidered onto bonnets (bead embroidery), or used as beard beads or hair ornaments.
Social differences were clearly reflected in the materials used. The lower classes wore bone, glass or clay beads, whilst the nobility favoured silver, gold, gemstones and genuine river pearls. Bronze was the universal material of the middle class – durable, malleable and affordable. Jewellery served simultaneously as a status symbol, a good luck charm and a marker of identity: a richly adorned necklace or an elaborately crafted medieval bangle signalled wealth and social standing at a glance. Beads carried their own symbolism – more on that later.
Chain dividers and connectors: function and historical models
A chain divider connects several strands of chain at a central point, thus creating multi-tiered necklaces or complex breast ornaments. Historical evidence of this technique can be found, among other places, in the grave finds from Birka (Sweden), an important trading centre of the Viking Age. There, women were buried wearing elaborate breast pendants in which brooches and chain dividers held together several strands of glass beads and metal pendants.
Anglo-Saxon and continental Germanic finds also reveal similar constructions. Bronze was the preferred material: easy to cast, corrosion-resistant and with a warm hue that perfectly complements glass beads or amber. In practice, chain dividers can be used in a variety of ways – for Viking necklaces and pendants, as an element in medieval hair ornaments, for belt pendants or for assembling beard bead sets. The bronze Viking chain divider ‘Öland’ is a fine example of such a historically inspired piece.
Medieval beads: materials and their historical significance
| Bead material | Historical classification | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Glass beads | Historically documented | Necklaces, pendants, hair ornaments – most common finds in the Early and High Middle Ages |
| Bone and antler beads | Historically documented | Simple necklaces, clothing trimmings – the oldest form of bead, widely used among the poorer classes |
| Amber beads | Historically attested | Necklaces in Northern Europe, Viking-era finds – believed to have had a protective function |
| Bronze beads / metal beads | Historically documented | Separators in chains, beard beads, hair beads – can be combined with other types of beads |
| Semi-precious stones | Courtly circles | Ceremonial jewellery, signet rings, necklaces of the upper classes |
Glass beads were the most widespread form of bead in early and high medieval Europe. Archaeological finds reveal an impressive variety: cylinder beads, wound beads with thread patterns, millefiori inlays and single-colour ring beads. Colourful glass bead necklaces are a characteristic element of women’s traditional dress, particularly in finds from the Merovingian and Viking periods. Amber beads were regarded as protective amulets in Northern Europe and were particularly popular in the Viking Age. Bronze beads often served as separators between other beads, giving a necklace its structural organisation.
Jewellery accessories by era and style
Early Middle Ages & Viking
Glass beads in many colours and shapes, amber beads, bronze beads as separators. Chain dividers based on Scandinavian finds (e.g. Birka) for multi-tiered necklaces. Simple metal connectors, bone beads for simpler necklaces.
High Middle Ages
Finer workmanship, more precious metals among the nobility. Beads in embroidered headdresses (bead embroidery) as a characteristic feature of courtly ladies’ fashion. Small connecting links made of silver or bronze for elaborate necklaces.
Late Middle Ages & Celtic-Germanic
More elaborate chain jewellery, complex settings for pendants. For Celtic and Germanic inspiration: natural materials, spiral motifs, simple connectors – ideally combined with medieval brooches and medieval earrings.
Using jewellery accessories yourself: tips for re-enactment and LARP
Creating your own necklace from beads and connectors is a rewarding way to design a unique and authentic piece of jewellery for both re-enactment and LARP. Take inspiration from archaeological contexts: for a Viking-era look, combine glass beads of various sizes with individual amber or bronze beads. For the High Middle Ages, finer, more uniform rows of beads look more appropriate. Using a simple linen thread or a fine chain as a base, you can quickly create pieces that complement your costume.
Viking beard and hair jewellery can be attached using simple tools: the hair or beard is plaited into a small plait, threaded through the bead and secured with a thin wire or cord. Make sure the hole in the bead is large enough – for beard beads, diameters of 3–4 mm or more are recommended. Some beads have side eyelets, which make fastening easier. Small metal clamping sleeves are ideal for particularly secure connections.
A chain distributor with three or more eyelets allows you to construct multi-tiered necklaces or belt pendants. Combine different chain lengths and bead sizes to create a visually interesting sense of depth. Historically accurate versions are based on Scandinavian finds: two brooches on the shoulders hold the outer chains, whilst a central distributor gathers the strands in the middle. For LARP use, the connection can also be secured with modern snap hooks, which are concealed behind the fabric.
You’ll find the perfect additions for your jewellery project at Vehi Mercatus: medieval necklaces and pendants, medieval brooches for wearing breast pendants, and the full range under Medieval Jewellery. If you’d like to complete your beard jewellery, you’ll find further options in the Medieval Hair Jewellery and Beard Beads section.
Pearls as a gift: what is the significance?
In the Middle Ages, giving pearls as a gift was a meaningful gesture. White pearls stood for purity and freedom, yellow ones symbolised prosperity and wealth, whilst green ones were seen as a sign of hope and growth. Pearls were not chosen at random – their colour, material and number all conveyed a message. In courtly circles, pearl gifts were a sign of respect and appreciation; in a religious context, they stood for purity and closeness to God.
Today, DIY pearl sets are a particularly prized gift for medieval enthusiasts: they combine historical knowledge with a hands-on crafting experience. If you’re looking for the perfect gift, you’ll find further inspiration under ‘Medieval Gift Ideas’ – from individual pearls and accessory sets to ready-made jewellery pieces for various eras and styles.
Whether you’re putting together a Viking-era beaded necklace yourself, completing your beard jewellery, or creating a historically inspired necklace with a chain divider – with the right accessories, you can create jewellery that complements your costume and tells a story. Browse through our range and find the pieces that will add the finishing touch to your next creation.
Frequently asked questions
In the Middle Ages, people wore brooches, rings, bracelets, necklaces with pendants and hair ornaments. Beads were particularly common – as strung necklaces, as beard beads or woven into knitted hoods. Materials varied greatly according to social class: from bone and glass for the common folk to silver, gold and gemstones for the nobility.
For the Early Middle Ages and the Viking Age, glass beads (cylindrical beads, wound beads), amber beads and bone beads are well attested archaeologically. Bronze beads were often used as separators in necklaces. Semi-precious stones are also suitable for courtly High Medieval garments. A mixture of glass beads of different colours and shapes is particularly authentic for Viking-era necklaces.
A chain divider is a small metal piece with several eyelets that connects multiple strands of chain at a single point. It is used to construct multi-tiered necklaces, pendants or belt pendants. Historical examples can be found in grave finds from Birka (Sweden) and other Scandinavian sites dating from the Viking Age.
In the historical context of the Middle Ages, pearls carried different meanings depending on their colour: white pearls symbolised purity and freedom, yellow ones prosperity, and green ones hope. Giving pearls as a gift was a meaningful gesture, not a random token. Today, DIY pearl sets are a popular gift for medieval enthusiasts, combining historical knowledge with a hands-on craft experience.
Baroque pearls refer to irregularly shaped pearls – naturally grown freshwater or saltwater pearls that are not perfectly spherical. The term originally derives from the Portuguese word for ‘irregular’. In the Middle Ages, such natural river pearls were quite common in courtly circles. In re-enactment and historically inspired jewellery-making, they play a rather minor role compared to glass, bone and amber beads.