Medieval dress ladies
Medieval dresses for women range from simple Viking undergarments to colourful late-medieval cotehardies – with over 200 styles from Burgschneider and Battle Merchant, you’ll find the perfect outfit here for re-enactment, LARP and medieval fairs.
What are medieval dresses – and what are they actually called?
The term ‘medieval dress’ is a modern collective term – historically, garments had very precise names that described their cut, how they were worn and their function. The underdress – referred to in sources as a chainse or cotte – was the first layer of clothing and was worn directly against the skin. Over this came the outer garment: as a surcoat (a short-sleeved or sleeveless outer garment), as a cotehardie (the more figure-hugging garment of the late Middle Ages with characteristic trumpet sleeves) or as a strap dress (hanging skirt) in the Viking tradition.
In our range, you will find these historical styles as specific products: the Freya underdress is based on the early medieval undergarment of the Viking Age; the Feme underdress offers a simpler, floor-length version with long sleeves; the Haithabu overdress is inspired by finds from the Viking Age; and the Jodis strap dress, made of wool, corresponds to the classic Nordic hanging skirt. These historical terms will help you choose the right layer of clothing and the right cut for your portrayal.
The right dress for your occasion: market, LARP or re-enactment
Whether you’re visiting a medieval market for the first time or portraying a reenactment character you’ve spent years developing – the requirements for your dress differ considerably. Dresses are available from around €25 for overdresses and around €42 for underskirts, with sizes ranging from XS to XXXXL.
For a visit to the market, appearance and comfort are the main priorities. A simple A-line cotton over-dress, combined with a plain under-dress in natural or white, is perfectly adequate. The Haithabu over-dress, starting at around €25, offers good value for money here. What can you wear to a medieval festival? A floor-length or calf-length cut, sturdy shoes and a narrow belt – that’s all you need for an atmospheric day.
For LARP, freedom of movement, durability and a cut that holds up even during long days of play and combat scenes are key. Cotton and linen offer the best compromise between look and durability. Look for wide sleeves, sufficient legroom and a cut without too many loose elements that might get caught in the undergrowth. A bodice or a cloak make a sensible addition to the outfit.
For historical re-enactment, the cut, fabric and colour should be chosen according to the respective century and region. Wool for outer garments, linen for undergarments – and a cut that is archaeologically or iconographically attested. The Early, High and Late Middle Ages differ considerably in silhouette and detail. Complete your outfit with historically appropriate shoes, headwear and accessories.
Undergarment and outer garment: the medieval layering system
Medieval women’s clothing followed a clearly defined layering system. The underdress – chainse or cotte – was worn directly against the skin and served as a substitute for modern underwear. It was usually natural-coloured or white, had an A-line cut, was floor-length and made from lighter fabric than the outer dress. To answer the question of what medieval ladies wore under their dresses: it was this undergarment, which served both as protection for the more expensive outer layer and as a sweat-wicking layer for the body.
The outer dress was the visible, often coloured layer on top. Among the most common styles were the apron dress (open at the sides, held over the shoulders), the hell-window dress with its characteristic wide armholes, and the classic long-sleeved outer dress with lacing or trim. Were medieval dresses tight-fitting? That depends very much on the period: early medieval garments were loose and draped; it was not until the late Middle Ages that styles became more form-fitting – the cotehardie, for example, deliberately emphasised the waist and hips.
For beginners, we recommend buying an under-dress and an over-dress as a set: the under-dress in natural or white forms the base, whilst the over-dress worn over it adds colour and character to the outfit. This creates a harmonious overall look with minimal effort.
Fabrics compared: wool, linen and cotton
Choosing the right fabric determines how authentic and comfortable a medieval dress ultimately is. What dresses did women wear in the Middle Ages? Primarily those made of wool and linen – depending on social status and the season.
| Material | Suitability | Properties & use |
|---|---|---|
| Wool | Historical | Warm, moisture-regulating, ideal for autumn and winter dresses and overcoats. Historically best documented for overcoats across all social classes. Recommended for re-enactment. In our range, e.g. Jodis strappy dress made from 74% wool. |
| Linen | Historical | Lightweight, breathable, becomes softer with every wash. Historically the preferred fabric for undergarments and summer attire. Visually close to the original, ideal for hot events. |
| Cotton | LARP / Market | More comfortable and easier to care for than linen, visually similar, cheaper to produce. A good choice for beginners, LARP and medieval market costumes. Not historically documented in the European Middle Ages – therefore only suitable for authentic re-enactments to a limited extent. |
| Synthetics | Not recommended | Synthetic fibres look different from natural fibres – their sheen and drape appear modern. They also offer poor temperature regulation during long events. Deliberately not used in the Vehi Mercatus own brand. |
The majority of garments in this category are made from 100% cotton – a pragmatic decision that prioritises comfort and ease of care without sacrificing a historical look.
An overview of the periods: Vikings, High and Late Middle Ages
What clothes were worn in the Middle Ages? That is no simple question – for ‘the Middle Ages’ encompasses over 1,000 years of fashion history with significant regional and temporal differences.
Early Middle Ages / Vikings
The basic ensemble of a Viking woman consisted of an under-tunic and a strap dress (hanging skirt). The strap dress was fastened over the shoulders with brooches, not sewn. The Haithabu over-dress draws on finds from the 8th–9th centuries; Jodi’s woolen strap dress and the Freya under-dress follow this tradition. Matching: Viking clothing for women.
High Middle Ages
In the High Middle Ages, the floor-length cotte with long, tight sleeves dominated as an underdress, worn under the loose surcoat as an outer garment. The silhouette was flowing and straight, with colours produced through elaborate plant dyeing. For a High Middle Ages portrayal, we recommend taking a look at the skirts and blouses as an alternative layering system.
Late Middle Ages
The cottehardie defined the Late Middle Ages: a figure-hugging cut, tight sleeves with characteristic trumpet sleeves that flared widely from the elbow. In our range, you’ll find this style as Late Middle Ages dresses with trumpet sleeves from Burgschneider – perfect for women’s Late Middle Ages clothing.
Colour and social significance: what does the dress reveal about the wearer?
In the Middle Ages, clothing was a direct status symbol. What clothes did people wear in the Middle Ages? The answer depends heavily on social class – and colour was the most striking indicator of social status.
Undergarments were traditionally natural-coloured, unbleached or white – they were barely visible and were rarely dyed elaborately. The outer dress, on the other hand, was the canvas for colour. Particularly costly dyes signalled wealth:
- Royal blue (indigo): Derived from the indigo plant, labour-intensive to produce – a sign of prosperity and dignity.
- Purple: The most noble colour, extracted from sea snails. Reserved for rulers in the Middle Ages.
- Saffron yellow: Extremely labour-intensive to produce – a status symbol for the upper classes.
Easily accessible colours such as brown and earth tones could be produced using walnut shells, oak bark or woad. They were not held in particularly high regard, but were widely used. This colour palette is directly reflected in our current range: natural, brown and woad blue for more authentic representations, but also vibrant shades such as green, burgundy, blue, saffron and black for LARP and market events – a total of over 15 colour variations for the undergarment models alone.
Caring for medieval garments made from natural fibres
Wool dresses are best washed by hand or on a gentle cycle at a maximum of 30°C. Do not spin-dry – wool felts due to mechanical stress. Dry flat so that the dress retains its shape. Never put in the tumble dryer, as the fibres will shrink. Wash dark wool dresses separately on the first wash.
Linen is machine washable at 40°C and can be ironed on a medium heat. A clear advantage of linen: it becomes softer and more comfortable against the skin with every wash. Wash dark linen garments separately on the first wash to prevent colour transfer.
Cotton is easy to care for: machine washing at 40 to 60°C is no problem. White cotton dresses can be boiled at 90°C if necessary. A colourfastness test is recommended before the first wash, especially for intensely dyed items.
Always wash dark colours separately – natural dyes and industrial dyes on natural fibres bleed more than on synthetics. Stains from hay, earth or campfire smoke – typical at markets and military encampments – are best pre-treated immediately, whilst still damp. After washing, dry natural fibre garments flat rather than hanging them up to prevent warping.
Complete your outfit: matching accessories for your medieval dress
A medieval dress alone is just the beginning – the harmonious overall look is created by the right additions. The belt is the most important element here: for underskirts, a narrow leather belt that emphasises the waist is suitable; for an overskirt, a wider model can also be used, which simultaneously serves as a place to carry belt bags and pouches. A medieval or Viking belt combines function and appearance.
The shoes should match the period: simple ankle boots or lace-up shoes are suitable for Viking attire, pointed shoes for High Medieval re-enactments, and taller styles for the Late Middle Ages. The Viking Shoes category provides an overview.
Headwear completes any historical women’s costume: a simple veil or bonnet for the Viking era, a gebende (a tied chin strap with a veil) for the High and Late Middle Ages, or a plain linen bonnet for everyday wear – you’ll find suitable styles in the Medieval Headwear category.
The same principle applies to jewellery as to clothing: brooches, necklaces and bracelets should suit the period. Viking women wore characteristic brooches to fasten their strapless dresses; in the High Middle Ages, simple ring brooches were common at the neckline of cloaks. For the Late Middle Ages, more elaborate necklaces and rings are added.
Whether you’re looking for your first dress for a medieval market or historically accurate re-enactment attire for a specific era – browse through the collection and find the style that suits your occasion, your figure and your style.
Frequently asked questions
Medieval women’s dresses had precise historical names: the underdress was called a chainse or cotte and was worn directly against the skin. Over this came the outer dress in various forms – as a surcoat (short or sleeveless outer garment), as a cotehardie (close-fitting late medieval dress with trumpet sleeves) or as a strapless dress (hanging skirt) in the Viking era. The term ‘medieval dress’ is a modern collective term that encompasses all these forms.
Medieval women wore a slip – also known as a chainse or cotte – as the innermost layer, worn directly against the skin and serving as a substitute for modern underwear. It was usually natural-coloured or white, floor-length, A-line in cut and made of light linen or fine wool. This underdress protected the more elaborate overdress from soiling and also served as a comfortable base layer.
That depends very much on the period. Early medieval garments – such as Viking underskirts and strappy dresses – were cut wide and flowing. In the High Middle Ages, the silhouette remained relatively straight. It was not until the Late Middle Ages that cuts became more form-fitting: the cotehardie of the 14th and 15th centuries deliberately emphasised the waist and hips and had tight sleeves that flared widely from the elbow – the so-called trumpet sleeves.
Wool and linen are the main fabrics historically documented for the European Middle Ages. Wool was suitable for outer garments and warm clothing, linen for undergarments and summer attire. Cotton was not common in the European Middle Ages and is considered anachronistic – however, it is a comfortable and visually acceptable choice for LARP and market visits. Synthetic fabrics are not recommended for historical re-enactments, as their sheen and drape appear modern.
For your first visit to a medieval market, a simple A-line cotton over-dress is perfectly adequate. A good fit and comfort are key – visits to medieval markets can be long. An underskirt in natural or white underneath, a narrow leather belt and comfortable shoes are all you need to create a harmonious overall look. Authenticity is secondary when you’re just starting out; having fun is the priority. Overdresses are available from around €25.